By: Zameenah Mckoy
Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Haute couture is widely recognized as storytelling through clothing, which is evident in Schiaparelli’s S/S 2025 collection. Daniel Roseberry, creative director of the French haute couture house, titles the collection “Icarus,” inspired by the son in Greek mythology. Roseberry translates the story of the son of the master craftsman Daedalus with the intent of offering viewers an escape from reality.
The Petit Palais hosted show had reflective pools of flattened golden metal arranged on the runway, hinting at Icarus, who flew too close to the sun and lost his wings. The runway set the stage, while the couture pieces brought the story to life—combining historical fashion references with modern craftsmanship. Through his designs, Roseberry challenges the idea that modernity must mean minimalism, proving that innovation thrives in extravagance as much as in simplicity.
Look 6
One of the opening looks was this dazzling sun-resembling piece, referencing the sun Icarus flew towards. It is a bustier gown made of duchess butter satin ribbons, contrasted with black velvet ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s. When modeled, the draped ribbons towards the bottom create an enchanting liquid-like movement, a detail Roseberry has flawlessly executed in recent collections. As a final touch, a black velvet flower bracelet made of the same material as the dress tops the look.
Look 11
This long, off-the-shoulder bustier gown is a nod at Icarus while referencing the Dior New Look from the 1950s. The cinched waist dress features ecru Chantilly lace embroidered with organza and enamel flowers that vaguely resemble feathers, like the wings of Icarus. Towards the bottom, the gown transitions into ruffles made of ivory mousseline, crepeline, organza, and tulle. In movement, the ruffles seem to flutter and float like wings, reinforcing the theme of Icarus' flight before a tragic fall. The silver minaudière is a subtle nod inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s cigarette case.
Look 12
Envisioning this look began with the desire to be modern while feeling antique. The dress starts with a base with padded hips to create the illusion of an even tinier waist. It features a double-bustier and petal-shaped embroidery in silk, cotton, and enamel fabrics. It has beaded fringes of flower bouquets and includes emblematic codes of the fashion house. A butter satin duchess train added another element of contrast and museum-like flair.
Look 14
For this look, Roseberry was seemingly inspired by 1950s feminine fashion. The gown is two-tone with a drop waist, a velvet high-neck top, and a minimalist bareback design. The lower half is a butter satin circle skirt embroidered with flowers and emblematic codes of Schiaparelli. The dress showcases the designer's balance of historical influence and contemporary refinement.
Look 31
In one of the final looks, Kendall Jenner models a strapless corset dress with exaggerated hips that represent Icarus' excessive ambition. The gown is crafted from nude meshing and draped pearl grey satin with a large bow and laced back. The house’s emblematic codes appear again in this collection as they are satin stitched amongst embroidered flowers. This piece perfectly reflects Schiaparelli's signature of surrealism with its harmonious marrying of sheer fabric on an architectural silhouette.
Comments